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Carla
celebrating the 4th
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It was the best Fourth of July ever!
I decided at the last minute to go to Chichicastenango and buy some
fireworks so we could celebrate properly. There being no restrictions
on such things here, we were spoiled for choice of dangerous projectiles.
There are two primary types of fireworks available year-round: large
chains of ferocious firecrackers, and home-made mortar rounds known
as "bombas". The bombas are basically bundles of gunpowder
the size of either an orange or a grapefruit, depending on how many
neighbors you want to irritate. Each bomba has a reassuringly long
fuse attached. I bought a good amount of both sizes of bombas, an
armful of firecrackers, and some sparklers.
When we got back to Lemoa I went to the local Catholic church to
borrow their mortar, but it turns out they don't own one. This was
odd, because most large Catholic churches in the area use mortars
regularly. Anyone who has stayed in Chichi for any amount of time
will verify this. In fact, the main Catholic mission in Chichi has
a mortar built right into their front steps!
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In Lemoa, though, no mortars could be found. Later in the evening,
however, the Hogar's caretaker Romeo somehow rounded up two mortars,
one for each different sized charge. We were ready!
But first a special dinner: Elisa made hamburgers, which we ate
accompanied by Ritz Crackers spread with peanut butter. How American
can you get? Then it was dark and the show was on. Féderico
and I went down to the patio with our boxes of gunpowder. The rest
of the children watched safely from above.
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Las
bombas
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| Féderico offered me the matches so I could start the show.
I dropped a small bomba into the mortar, lit the fuse and sprinted
away. The fuse burned down in about 2 milliseconds and there was a
huge blast and shower of sparks as the primary charge detonated. The
bomba shot up into the stratosphere, whence the secondary charge exploded.
This, I'm sure, most of the Quiche region heard. The sound echoed
off the mountains for a long time before Féde and I slowly
emerged from behind the retaining wall where we had sought refuge.
What with bombs literally "bursting in air" our Guatemalan
celebration of the 4th was probably the most realistic reenactment
of the Revolutionary War I have ever witnessed. It was certainly
the most involving. We were almost chased off the patio by a particularly
aggressive string of "Puma" firecrackers. After seeing
how little escape time the seemingly long bomba fuses allowed, Féderico
and I were soon kindly reminding each other when it was the other's
"turn" to light the next one. It was an exciting business.
Once the main show was over, the children were all given sparklers.
They enjoyed these immensely, and nobody caught anything on fire.
Later some of the boys took flashlights down to the patio to search
for unexploded ordinance. They found some and disposed of them as
you might expect. Happily no fingers were lost.
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Benja
and Maria in the forest
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A Trip to Xela
We drove to Xela via Totonicopan on Saturday. We took
the usual shortcut, straight over the mountains on a dirt
road that would probably be classified 4WD in the States.
A few hours into the trip we crested a high mountain pass
with an alpine meadow straight out of the Swiss Alps.
The place was called "Paraje Chuipachec". We
got out to walk to a small rocky stream and had to put
on another layer. It was quite cold. The altitude must
have been least at 9,000 feet.
We stopped to visit Elisa's family in Toto, where it
was also quite cold. After some steaming coffee and
special Toto bread we visited the Saturday market. It
was a busy place, much more businesslike than the one
in Chichi. Plus, I was the only gringo in sight. We
bought some black beans and rice, and then continued
on to Xela.
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The Market in Totonicopan
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| In Xela we were to buy supplies at the Hiper Pais, a
kind of Guatemalan Walmart. Xela is a big city, the second
largest in the country. I've discovered that Guatemalans
have a rather loose sense of direction; about half the
time they say "left" or "right" they
actually mean the opposite. Once in the city, everyone
in the van started giving me conflicting directions to
the store. Combine this with my occasionally faulty translations
of "izquierda" and "derecha" and you
can see why we made so many U-turns.
We did make it to the store. We bought lots of diapers
for the Hogar and even more for Rayito de Luz, which
we later delivered.
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